If you happen to travel to the hills of Uttarakhand in the freezing month of January, you will witness a sight that is unique to this part of the world. While the rest of India is busy flying kites or lighting bonfires for Makar Sankranti, the valleys of Kumaon echo with the voices of children looking up at the sky, calling out to crows.
They are not shooing the birds away; they are inviting them to a feast.
This is the Ghughutiya or Kale Kauva festival, a celebration where the black crow is treated as the guest of honor. It is a festival that blends childhood innocence with deep-rooted folklore, bringing families together over sweet delicacies and age-old songs.
For a tourist, it is a fascinating display of human-nature bonding, for a native Pahadi, it is a heartwarming trip down memory lane, reminding them of winter mornings spent with grandmothers and cousins.
What is the Ghughuti or Kale Kauva Festival?
The Ghughuti festival is one of the most significant ancestral festivals of the Kumaon region in Uttarakhand. Locally, it is known by several names, including Ghughutiya, Kale Kauva (Black Crow), and Uttarayani.
Basically, this is a children’s festival. The central ritual involves preparing deep-fried sweet treats called ‘Ghughute‘ made from wheat flour and jaggery. These sweets are strung into edible necklaces and worn by children, who then offer portions of it to crows and migratory birds.
Unlike other festivals that focus on idol worship, this tradition focuses on the ecosystem. It acknowledges the crow a bird often ignored or considered inauspicious in other contexts as a vital messenger and friend.
Why We Celebrate This Festival?
Every tradition has a story, and the Kale Kauva festival is rooted in a dramatic legend from the Chand Dynasty that ruled Kumaon centuries ago.
The story goes that King Kalyan Chand had no heir to his throne for many years. He and his Queen prayed fervently to Lord Baghnath at the Bageshwar temple. Their prayers were finally answered, and they were blessed with a son, whom they named Nirbhay Chand.
The Queen, overwhelmed with love for her long-awaited child, affectionately nicknamed him Ghughuti.
The Prince and the Crow
To adorn her precious son, the Queen had a special pearl necklace made, featuring tiny tinkling bells. Prince Ghughuti loved this necklace dearly. However, like many children, he was often stubborn and refused to eat his food.
To make him eat, the Queen devised a playful trick. She would hold up a morsel of food and say, “Eat your food, Ghughuti! If you don’t, I will give your beautiful necklace to the crows!”
She would then call out to the birds, “Kale! Kale!” Hearing her voice, the crows would fly down into the palace courtyard. Seeing the birds arrive, the little prince would get scared that they would truly take his necklace, so he would quickly finish his meal. Over time, this fear turned into friendship, and the prince began sharing his food with the crows regularly.
The Minister’s Betrayal and the Rescue
The King’s minister, who had been eyeing the throne while the King was childless, saw the prince as a threat. One day, he conspired with his guards to kidnap Prince Ghughuti. They took the child deep into the forest to kill him.
Terrified and alone, the little prince started crying. A crow, one of his daily feeding companions, recognized the boy. The bird began cawing loudly, alerting the entire flock. The crows attacked the minister and his men, pecking and clawing at them to create chaos.
In the confusion, the smart prince took off his pearl necklace and threw it toward the crows. One crow caught the necklace in its beak and flew straight to the palace. It dropped the jewelry in front of the King and Queen.
Recognizing his son’s necklace, the King sensed something was wrong. He gathered his soldiers and followed the crow, which led him straight to the spot in the forest where the minister was holding the prince. The King saved his son and executed the traitor.
To express her gratitude to the birds that saved her son’s life, the Queen prepared a grand feast of sweets. She asked Prince Ghughuti to feed the crows with his own hands. That gesture of gratitude evolved into the Ghughutiya festival we celebrate today.
When and Where is This Festival Celebrated?
If you are planning a trip to experience this culture, or simply searching for “Ghughuti festival in which state is celebrated,” here are the details:
- The State: The festival is celebrated in Uttarakhand.
- The Region: While the event coincides with Makar Sankranti which is celebrated all over India, the specific Kale Kauva tradition is unique to the Kumaon region. It is celebrated with great zeal in districts like Almora, Nainital, Bageshwar, Pithoragarh, and Champawat.
- The Timing: It falls on the first day of the month of Magh in the Hindu calendar, which marks the sun entering the Capricorn zodiac (Makar Rashi). This usually corresponds to January 14th or 15th (Makar Sankranti).
The festival marks the end of the harsh winter and the beginning of the harvest season, signaling the return of migratory birds to the hills.
What Are the Rituals?
For a tourist, watching the rituals is delightful, but for a local, the preparation is where the emotion lies.
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Making the Ghughute
On the eve of the festival, the aroma of frying Ghee and Gur (Jaggery) fills the air in every Pahadi household. Mothers and grandmothers prepare a dough using wheat flour (Atta) and jaggery syrup.
However, they don’t just roll them into balls. The dough is twisted and shaped into specific symbols representing the legend and tools of war/music:
- Dhol & Damru: Representing the musical instruments of Lord Shiva.
- Talwar (Sword): Representing the weapon that protected the Prince.
- Anaar: The shape of a pomegranate flower.
- Khajur: Date palm shapes.
- Spirals: Resembling snakes or the circle of life.
These shapes are deep-fried until they turn a rich, crispy golden brown. These treats are the Ghughute.
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The Morning of Makar Sankranti
On the festival morning, children are bathed and dressed in new clothes. The fried Ghughute are threaded into a garland (Mala) using a needle and thread. To make the garland colorful and attractive, whole oranges (a winter fruit of the hills), popcorn, and sometimes walnuts are strung in between the sweets.
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Calling the Crows
This is the most picturesque moment of the Ghughuti festival in Uttarakhand. Children wear these edible necklaces around their necks and run to their rooftops or courtyards. They look up at the sky and chant a traditional folk song to invite the crows:
“Kale kauva kaale, Ghughuti mala khaale” (O Black crow, come eat this garland of Ghughute)
They then offer a piece of the sweet to the crow and ask for blessings in return:
“Le Kauva bhat, main ke de sunau thaat” (Take this rice, and give me a golden plate)
“Le Kauva lagad, main ke de bhyo dagad” (Take this wood, and give me a long life/brother’s company)
“Le Kauva bod, muke de sunau ghod” (Take this escapade, and give me a golden jar)
in hindi:
कौवा आ यो खे ले
ले कौवा चाकू, मकै दिए सुनु चाकू
ले कौवा पुय, मकै दिए भल भल जुए
ले कौवा डमरू, मकै दिए सुनु डमरू
ले कौवा फुलो, मकै दिए भल भल धुलो
ले कौवा तलवार, मकै बणे दिए होशियार
ले कौवा ढाल, मकै दिए सुनु थाल
ले कौवा घड़ा, मकै दिए सुनु भर घड़ा
Once the crows swoop down and peck at the offerings, the children cheer. It is believed that if a crow eats from your hand or roof, it brings good luck and prosperity to the house for the coming year. Afterward, the children eat the remaining sweets from their garlands as Prasad.
Why Only Crows?
While the legend of the Prince is charming, there is a deeper spiritual layer to the Kale Kauva festival.
- Ancestral Worship (Pitr Pujan): In Hindu culture, crows are considered carriers of souls and messengers of ancestors (Pitrs). During the month of Magh, feeding crows is akin to feeding one’s forefathers. It is a way of paying respect to those who have passed away, ensuring their souls remain at peace.
- Harmony with Nature: Ecologically, January is the harshest month in the Himalayas. Food is scarce for birds and animals due to the cold and snow. This festival ensures that the birds receive energy-rich food (Ghee and Jaggery) to survive the winter. It teaches young children that humans are not owners of nature, but caretakers who must share their food with wildlife.
Conclusion
The Ghughutiya/Kale Kauva Festival is more than just a ritual; it is a lesson in gratitude, ecology, and history wrapped in sweetness.
For the native people of Uttarakhand, it is a reminder of their roots, a nostalgic flashback to winter mornings filled with the smell of jaggery and the sound of laughter. For tourists and visitors, it serves as a beautiful example of how Pahadi culture honors every living being, from the mightiest King to the humble crow.
So, if you ever find yourself in Kumaon during January, look up. You might just see a child and a crow sharing a moment of ancient friendship.